How to Build a DIY Murphy Bed
Building a DIY Murphy bed can help you reclaim your floor space while maintaining a comfortable, easy-to-set-up spot for overnight guests. Murphy or wall beds are space-saving furniture, folding against the wall or into a cabinet.
These DIY Murphy bed plans can be built for less than $1,000, including reading lights, electrical outlets, USB ports, and a Murphy bed hardware kit. Murphy bed kits come in various sizes, including twin, full, queen, and king, making building a Murphy bed yourself easier than ever before.
Read ahead to learn how to build your own Murphy bed that looks great when not in use and won’t break the budget.
How Much Does a DIY Murphy Bed Cost?
It's much cheaper to build a Murphy bed than to buy one. Buying a Murphy bed can cost upwards of $3,000, with luxury options exceeding $10,000. Materials like plywood and solid wood for a DIY Murphy bed will only cost a few hundred dollars. If you opt to use a Murphy bed hardware kit like this tutorial, you can plan on spending another few hundred dollars.
Some DIYers opt to forgo the Murphy bed hardware kits when building a Murphy bed to save some money. The tradeoff is the ability to hide the legs and the assisted opening. If these attributes aren't of great value to you, building a DIY Murphy bed without the hardware kit is simple.
The Cost of Wood for a Murphy Bed
The wood needed to build a basic Murphy bed will cost less than $400 on average. This Murphy bed DIY utilizes a mixture of nominal pine lumber and plywood as strong, solid options that won't break the bank. If you're looking for a more luxurious finish, you can swap the appearance boards for materials like oak and stain them rather than paint them.
Murphy Bed Kits and Hardware
Rather than designing this DIY Murphy bed tutorial around one specific hardware kit, this is adaptable to many. Generally, Murphy bed hardware kits will come with three things: legs, mattress straps, and springs or pistons for lifting and lowering the bed.
This DIY Murphy bed will also utilize a Murphy bed hardware kit, but the tutorial is meant to be adjusted to your specific hardware kit. When in doubt, reference your Murphy bed hardware kit's manufacturer's instructions and employ any provided templates for leg hardware and springs or pistons.
In addition to hardware kits, this Murphy bed tutorial includes integrated outlets with reading lights and USB ports to take advantage of covered outlets.
Safety Considerations
All Murphy beds need to be securely anchored to the wall unless they are specifically designed to be floor-mounted. Not only will failure to do so pose a significant safety risk, but it will also compromise the function of the Murphy bed, as it relies on the wall's strength during opening and closing.
What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Stud finder
- Level or laser level
- Miter saw
- Jigsaw
- Brad nailer with nails
- Drill
- Drill bits
- Iron
- Painting supplies
- Orbital sander with sandpaper
- Caulk gun
- Oscillating multitool (optional)
- Pry bar
- Ladder
Materials
- Murphy bed hardware kit
- Combination outlet extension and reading light
- 2 1x8 x 8' pine boards
- 3 2x2 x8' pine boards
- 1 2x4 x 8' pine board
- 2 2x4 x 10' pine boards
- 2 1x6 x 10' pine boards
- 4 1x4 x 10' pine boards
- 1 3/4" x 4' x 8' sheet sanded plywood
- 2 1/4" x 4' x 8' sheet sanded plywood
- 1 1/2" x 4' x 8' sheet sanded plywood
- 3/4" iron-on edge banding
- Wood glue
- 12 1/4" x 3-1/2" lag bolts
- 12 1/4" fender washers
- 2" wood screws
- 2 Cabinet pulls
- Painter's caulk
- Painting supplies
- Bare wood primer
- Interior paint
Instructions
How to Build a DIY Murphy Bed
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Build Mattress Base Sides
Cut two 2x2 boards to 75 inches and two 1x8 boards to 75 inches. Glue and screw a 2x2 along the bottom edge of a 1x8, pre-drilling and placing 2-inch screws every 6 inches. Repeat with the second 1x8 and 2x2.
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Radius the Mattress Base Sides (Optional)
Use the provided template and a jigsaw to cut the radius from each top corner of the sides if your hardware kit requires this. Some Murphy bed hardware kits require the tops of the mattress base to have a radius to accommodate the hardware and the movement of the bed when opening and closing it.
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Attach Top and Bottom
Place the assembled sides on your work surface with the 2x2s at the bottom. Cut two 1x6 boards to 56-1/2 inches and place them at each end of the sides. Glue the joints and screw through the 1x6s into the ends of the 1x8s and 2x2s to form a box.
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Attach Middle Support
Cut a 2x4 to 75 inches and place it in the middle of the box, stretching from the top to the bottom, centered at 28-1/4 inches. Screw through the 1x6 boards into the ends of the 2x4.
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Attach Mattress Supports
Cut eight 1x4 boards to 55 inches and place them equally spaced across the inside of the mattress box. Glue and screw them to the 2x2s and the 2x4.
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Attach Mattress Straps
Attach the mattress straps if they're included in your hardware kit according to the manufacturer's instructions.
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Mount Leg Hardware and Legs
Mount the leg hardware in your hardware kit on the bottom end of the base, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use any provided templates or dimensions for positioning.
Pay close attention to whether the legs are to be placed on the outside or inside of the base's sides. Once the hardware is in place, attach the legs.
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Mount Pivot Mechanism
Mount the hardware for the pivot mechanism (spring or piston) at the top end of the base using any templates or dimensions provided by the manufacturer for placement.
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Determine Wall Cabinet's Dimensions
Determine your wall cabinet's dimensions using the hardware kit and your mattress's thickness as a guide. Account for these variables:
- Gap for pivot mechanism. The pivot mechanism's required gap is the space between the outside of the mattress box and the inside of the wall cabinet. The gap will determine the top and bottom board lengths to ensure there is room for the hardware.
- Hardware's distance from the floor. The pivot mechanism's distance from the floor will determine the height of your sides, as the cabinet's total height will have to accommodate the length of the bed box when closed.
- Mattress thickness. The thickness of your mattress will determine the required depth of your cabinet, as the cabinet will need to be deep enough to fit the mattress when closed.
For demonstration purposes, the following steps assume the required interior height of the cabinet is 80 inches, the interior width is 60 inches, and the interior depth is 13 inches. Adjust these dimensions as needed.
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Cut Wood for Wall Cabinet
Use a table or circular saw with a straight edge to cut the 3/4-inch plywood into two pieces measuring 15 inches by 80 inches (sides). Cut another piece measuring 15 inches by 61-1/2 inches (top). Cut four 2x4s to 60 inches.
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Attach Edge Banding
Attach iron-on edge banding to one side of each plywood piece, following the manufacturer's instructions for application and trimming. On the top piece, edge band the sides as well.
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Mark the Wall
Mark the wall for your desired cabinet location. Mark each stud's location to make it easier to find.
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Attach the Wall Supports
Pre-drill and attach a 2x4 to the wall with the top edge at 80 inches, using 1/4-inch by 3-1/2-inch lag bolts with washers. Attach a second 2x4 on the wall against the floor. Cut and remove the baseboard using an oscillating multitool and a flat pry bar if necessary. Attach a third 2x4 with its top edge at 33-1/2 inches.
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Mount Cabinet Sides
Stand the cabinet sides up with the edge banding facing outward and screw through the cabinets into the ends of each 2x4. Place the fourth 2x4 on the floor against the outside edge of the cabinet and screw through the cabinet into the 2x4.
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Attach Cabinet Top
Place the top cabinet piece on top of the side pieces with the edge piece facing outward. Screw through the top piece into the tops of the side piece using 2-inch wood screws.
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Cut and Attach Vertical Nailers
Cut 2x2 boards into two pieces measuring 42.75 inches and two pieces measuring 18.25 inches. Place the longer 2x2s between the top 2x4s against the cabinet sides, then screw them into the cabinet sides using 2-inch wood screws. Place the remaining boards beneath the middle 2x4 and against the cabinet sides.
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Cut Back Pieces
Cut 1/4-inch plywood into one piece measuring 60 inches by 48 inches. Cut a second piece measuring 60 inches by 20 inches.
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Mount Recessed Outlet and Reading Light (Optional)
Mount the recessed outlet and reading light to take advantage of a covered outlet. Cut the hole for the outlet at least 2 inches below the top edge of the 20-inch tall piece of plywood. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for measuring and cutting the hole. If you want a reading light and outlet on each side, position them evenly toward each vertical edge of the 1/4-inch plywood piece.
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Mount Back Pieces
Apply a bead of glue to each 2x4 and 2x2, then slide the plywood into place between the cabinet sides and secure with brad nails. Start with the top piece, then place the bottom piece. The bottom piece is left intentionally unfastened across its bottom edge to allow access to the covered outlet.
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Mount Pivot Mechanism Hardware
Mount the pivot mechanism hardware on the cabinet sides using the manufacturer's instructions and any provided templates.
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Mount Bed Box in Wall Cabinet
Use the manufacturer's instructions to attach the pivot mechanism and mount the bed box within the wall cabinet. Lift and lower the bed to test its functionality and make any adjustments before moving forward.
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Cut and Attach Outside Bed Box Cover
Cut 1/2-inch plywood into two pieces measuring 30 inches by 76-1/2 inches. With the bed closed, glue and brad nail the pieces to the front of the bed box.
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Cut and Attach Faux Door Trim
Rip 1/4-inch plywood into 3-inch-wide strips. Cut four strips to a length of 30 inches and four strips to a length of 70-1/2 inches. Glue and brad nail the strips around the perimeter of the 1/2-inch plywood to create a faux door.
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Attach Door Pulls
Attach door pulls by drilling holes and using their provided hardware to sell the look of the faux cabinet door. You'll likely have to lower the bed to secure the nuts on the backside. These also will make it easier to lower the bed by providing a firm place to grab.
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Attach Top and Bottom Trim to Cabinet
Cut and attach a piece of 1x6 top and bottom trim to cover the exposed interior of the cabinet when the bed is in the closed position. The width of these trim boards will depend on the placement of your pivot mechanism on the bed and cabinet, and you may have to choose a narrower board to accommodate your kit.
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Prime, Caulk, and Paint
Prime all bare wood using a bare wood primer, applying and reapplying according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once dry, caulk every joint and seam and fill every nail and screw hole.
Drive the nails further into the wood using a nail set if necessary. Once the caulk dries, paint all surfaces with your desired paint color.
Tips for Building a DIY Murphy Bed
Follow these Murphy bed tips to get the most out of your stowaway bed.
- Choose the right wood for your Murphy bed. Many different types of wood can be used to build a Murphy bed. Choose the type of wood that fits your vision and your budget. If your Murphy bed hardware kit specifies a certain type, default to this.
- Add built-in cabinetry. If you're going to the trouble of building a cabinet to conceal your Murphy bed, you might as well go one step further and build additional cabinetry for extra storage. A simple set of DIY floor-to-ceiling shelves will make the Murphy bed cabinet look. more complete.
- Stay safe when opening and closing the Murphy bed. Due to the nature of a Murphy bed's movement, pinching is a concern. Keep all limbs away from the Murphy bed when opening and closing. Additionally, no one should stand below the Murphy bed during opening and closing, should the hardware fail and the bed assembly fall.
- Pay attention to weight limits. If your Murphy bed hardware kit has specified weight limits, pay close attention and do not exceed these limits. If no weight limit is specified, do not exceed the mattress's weight limit.
- Remove excess bedding if necessary. If you're having trouble closing your Murphy bed tightly, consider removing excess bedding like quilts, comforters, and pillows. In most cases, sheets can be left on the mattress.
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What is the difference between a Murphy bed and a wall bed?
While the terms "Murphy bed" and "wall bed" have become synonymous, in the past, a Murphy bed implied using a spring mechanism while wall beds used pistons. These days, most Murphy beds use pistons, as they are lighter and easier to install than spring mechanisms.
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Can you turn a regular bed into a Murphy bed?
You can turn some platform beds into a Murphy bed by adding hardware and building a wall cabinet, but a better and safer route would be to make a Murphy bed from scratch.
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What is the life expectancy of a Murphy bed?
A high-quality Murphy bed can easily last 15 years or longer, even if used regularly. Murphy beds that are only used occasionally may have dramatically longer lifespans.
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Can you use a Murphy bed everyday?
Most high-quality Murphy beds can be used every day just as you would a standard bed. However, inexpensive models made with cheaper materials may begin to wear out prematurely if used nightly.